Last month, on a whim, I made a booking at Odette – the highly anticipated National Gallery offering by former Jaan chef Julien Royer – which turned out to be an exceptionally great decision on hindsight. The bright spark in between two weeks of an awful mycoplasma infection, we followed up this meal with an insightful tour around the National Gallery with my aunt, who volunteers as a docent there (the tours are highly recommended!).
Some intricately complex flavours can be savoured in each of the 6 courses we had on a balmy Saturday afternoon. I loved Royer’s play on beetroot, save for the dehydrated permutation which tasted too much like fizzy-pop candy that I stayed away from during my childhood. His skill with pickling was also pretty impressive, with translucent slivers of root vegetables turning up innocuously on a couple of dishes to balance out some of the heavier elements. Also a favourite was the heady smokiness of the saba, paired with eggplant and raddichio, as well as a creatively assembled lemon meringue tart for petit fours. And the bread of course – I devoured almost every piece.
While overall consistently good, the Hida wagyu could have done with a touch more complementary spicy greens. As the beef was sliced thinly, then bundled up into rolls seared medium rare, none of the fat was removed. The result was little ecosystem of oil steadily heaving towards the edges of my plate. The wonderful pumpkin focaccia however helped to alleviate an overtly greasy mouthfeel.
We rounded off the meal with a beautifully light pear mille-feuille, accompanied by salted caramel and its ice cream iteration. An indulgent lunch, with little fault in each dish, but nothing quite intense enough to make it extremely memorable, though the ambience and service work hard to fill that gap. Nevertheless, I think I’ll be back!
1 St Andrew’s Road #01-04 Singapore 178957
Tel: +65 6385 0498